Spring Personal Watercraft Preparation: Getting Your Sea-Doo Jet Ski Ready for Long Island Waters

Winter's grip finally loosens its hold on Long Island as March transitions into April. The first warm days bring thoughts of summer adventures on the Great South Bay, cruising through Moriches Inlet, or exploring the countless coves and harbors that make our region a personal watercraft paradise. Your Sea-Doo, Kawasaki Jet Ski, or Suzuki machine has sat through months of cold storage, and now it needs proper preparation before that first ride of the season.

Many Long Island riders make the mistake of assuming that winterization provides all the protection their watercraft needs until spring arrives. They pull covers off machines, connect batteries, and attempt to start engines without performing essential spring commissioning procedures. This approach sometimes works, but it often results in poor performance, difficult starting, or mechanical problems that could have been prevented through proper preparation. Worse, issues that developed during storage remain undiscovered until they cause failures during your first trips, ruining outings and potentially leaving you stranded far from launch sites.

Thorough spring preparation accomplishes multiple goals beyond simply getting your machine running. The process identifies problems that developed during winter storage, allowing you to address issues before they escalate into expensive repairs or dangerous situations. It reverses winterization procedures that protected your watercraft through cold months but would impair performance if left in place. Most importantly, comprehensive spring commissioning provides confidence that your machine will perform reliably when you're miles from shore, surrounded by family and friends counting on safe passage back to the launch ramp.

Understanding What Winter Does to Stored Watercraft

Even properly winterized personal watercraft experience changes during months of inactivity. Some of these changes result from the winterization process itself, while others stem from the natural degradation that occurs when complex mechanical systems sit unused. Understanding what happens during storage helps you appreciate why spring preparation involves more than simply topping off the fuel tank and pressing the start button.

Batteries lose charge progressively during storage despite being disconnected from electrical systems. The chemical reactions occurring inside lead-acid batteries continue even when no current flows, causing self-discharge that drains capacity over time. Cold temperatures accelerate this process, meaning batteries stored in unheated garages discharge faster than those kept in temperature-controlled environments. A battery reading 12.6 volts in November might measure only 12.0 volts by March, placing it below the threshold for reliable engine starting.

Fuel stabilizer preserves gasoline during storage, but it doesn't stop all degradation processes. Ethanol-blended fuels attract moisture from humid air, potentially introducing water contamination that promotes corrosion in fuel system components. The stabilizer itself can settle unevenly if the fuel tank wasn't completely full, creating areas where gasoline received inadequate protection. Spring fuel system evaluation identifies problems before contaminated fuel damages injectors or clogs filters.

Antifreeze introduced during winterization remains in exhaust systems and intercooler passages, providing essential freeze protection but interfering with proper operation if not removed before use. This non-toxic propylene glycol mixture must be flushed completely from all water passages before running engines under load. Attempting to ride with antifreeze still in the system can cause overheating and potential damage to temperature-sensitive components.

Seals and gaskets contract during cold weather, sometimes losing their ability to maintain proper sealing when temperatures warm again. O-rings around jet pump seals, drive shaft seals, and coolant system connections may develop slight leaks that weren't present when you stored the machine. These leaks often remain minor if caught early but can worsen dramatically once the machine operates under the stress and vibration of normal riding.

Moisture accumulation creates the perfect environment for mold, mildew, and corrosion even in climate-controlled storage. Temperature fluctuations cause condensation to form on cold metal surfaces, leaving microscopic water droplets that promote rust on fasteners, electrical connections, and unpainted metal components. Storage compartments can develop musty odors from mildew growth on upholstery and carpet if they weren't thoroughly dried before covering the watercraft.

Battery Inspection and Charging Procedures

Your battery determines whether your machine starts on the first attempt or leaves you frustrated at the launch ramp while other riders head out for the day. Spring battery preparation involves more than simply reinstalling the battery you removed months earlier. Proper procedures verify that the battery retains adequate capacity and can deliver the substantial current required for starting modern fuel-injected engines.

Begin by inspecting the battery visually before connecting any chargers or attempting to measure voltage. Look for cracks in the plastic case, bulging sides indicating internal damage, or corrosion around terminals suggesting electrolyte leakage. Batteries showing any of these signs require immediate replacement regardless of their age or maintenance history. Internal damage doesn't heal with charging, and attempting to use compromised batteries creates fire hazards and risks stranding you during rides.

Clean battery terminals using a wire brush or specialized battery terminal cleaner, removing all traces of white or green corrosion that increase electrical resistance. Even minor corrosion significantly impairs current flow, making starting difficult and potentially masking underlying battery problems. After cleaning, apply a thin coating of dielectric grease or battery terminal protectant to discourage future corrosion formation.

Connect a quality battery charger and bring the battery to full charge before testing its condition. Modern smart chargers with multi-stage charging cycles provide the best results, automatically adjusting current and voltage to optimize charging without overcharging that damages batteries. Charging typically requires several hours depending on how depleted the battery became during storage. Attempting to rush this process with high-current chargers can damage battery plates and reduce overall capacity.

After charging completes, let the battery rest for at least an hour before testing voltage. A fully charged 12-volt battery should measure between 12.6 and 12.8 volts at rest. Readings below 12.4 volts indicate the battery didn't accept a full charge, suggesting capacity loss that may require replacement. Batteries measuring above 13.0 volts while resting haven't stabilized yet and need additional rest time before accurate testing.

Perform a load test using a dedicated battery tester or by cranking the engine briefly while monitoring voltage. Voltage should remain above 9.5 volts during cranking on a healthy battery. Readings that drop below this threshold indicate insufficient capacity for reliable starting, particularly on cold mornings when battery performance decreases. Don't compromise on marginal batteries; replacement costs far less than the inconvenience of jump-starting attempts or potential rescue expenses if you become stranded.

Reinstall the battery in your watercraft, connecting the positive terminal first, then the negative terminal. This sequence prevents accidental shorts that can occur if tools contact grounded metal surfaces while working near the positive terminal. Ensure connections are tight and secure, as loose battery cables create starting problems that mimic weak battery symptoms.

Fuel System Evaluation and Fresh Fuel

The fuel system requires careful attention during spring preparation because contaminated or degraded fuel causes most performance problems that plague watercraft after storage. Even properly stabilized fuel needs evaluation to ensure it remains suitable for use. The consequences of using questionable fuel range from poor performance and difficult starting to damage requiring expensive injector cleaning or fuel pump replacement.

Start by inspecting fuel in the tank, looking for signs of contamination or separation. Fresh, properly stabilized fuel should appear clear and uniform in color. Dark fuel, visible water separation, or cloudy appearance indicates problems requiring fuel draining and disposal. Don't attempt to use contaminated fuel under the assumption that adding fresh fuel will dilute problems sufficiently. Contamination circulates throughout the entire fuel system once the engine runs, depositing varnish and debris in places requiring professional cleaning to remedy.

The decision to use stabilized fuel versus draining and refilling depends on several factors including how long the watercraft sat in storage, whether you filled the tank completely before winterization, and the type of stabilizer used. Fuel stored less than six months in completely full tanks using quality marine-grade stabilizer typically performs adequately. Fuel older than six months, stored in partially filled tanks, or protected by questionable stabilizer products deserves more scrutiny and potentially complete replacement.

If you choose to drain old fuel, consult local regulations regarding disposal since dumping gasoline violates environmental laws and creates hazards. Many municipalities offer hazardous waste collection days accepting old fuel, or automotive service centers may accept small quantities. Never pour fuel down drains or onto the ground where it contaminates groundwater and poses fire risks.

After draining questionable fuel or confirming that stabilized fuel remains acceptable, add fresh high-quality marine fuel to the tank. Long Island's waters expose personal watercraft to challenging conditions including salt spray and high humidity, making premium fuel with detergent additives worthwhile despite higher costs. These additives help keep fuel injectors clean and prevent carbon deposits that degrade performance over time.

Consider adding fresh fuel stabilizer even though you plan to use the watercraft regularly throughout the season. Modern ethanol-blended fuels begin degrading within weeks, and stabilizer provides insurance against problems during periods when the machine sits unused. This practice proves particularly valuable if unexpected events prevent you from riding for several weeks during the season.

Flushing Winterization Antifreeze

The antifreeze protecting your exhaust system and intercooler (if equipped) served its purpose keeping water from freezing and cracking components during winter. Now this fluid must be completely removed before operating the engine under load. Antifreeze remaining in the system interferes with proper cooling and can cause overheating that damages engines in minutes under riding conditions.

The flushing process uses fresh water introduced through the same fitting where you connected antifreeze during winterization. Most personal watercraft include flush adapters that accept standard garden hoses, making the process straightforward. Connect a hose to the flush fitting and turn on water flow before starting the engine. Never run the engine without water flow established first, as even a few seconds of dry operation can damage the impeller in your cooling system's water pump.

Start the engine and let it run at idle speed while fresh water circulates through all cooling passages. Watch the discharge from the exhaust outlet at the rear of the watercraft, monitoring for the pink color that indicates antifreeze is being expelled. Continue running fresh water until all traces of pink disappear and only clear water discharges from the exhaust. This typically requires five to ten minutes of flushing depending on how much antifreeze remained in the system.

Some models with external intercoolers require additional flushing procedures to ensure antifreeze is removed from all passages. Consult your owner's manual for model-specific instructions since designs vary significantly between manufacturers. External intercooler systems typically use separate cooling circuits that need individual attention during the flushing process.

After flushing is complete, disconnect the water supply and run the engine briefly to purge remaining water from the system. This prevents standing water from causing problems if you don't ride immediately after spring preparation. The brief run without water supply won't damage components since the engine's closed-loop coolant system continues protecting the engine itself from overheating.

Cooling System and Engine Fluids

The engine's closed-loop cooling system requires inspection even though it doesn't directly contact raw water. Coolant degrades over time, losing the corrosion inhibitors and additives that protect internal passages from rust and scale formation. Most manufacturers recommend coolant changes every two years or 200 hours of operation, whichever comes first. Spring provides an ideal opportunity to perform this maintenance if your watercraft is approaching service intervals.

Check coolant level in the overflow reservoir, adding the proper type of premixed coolant if levels sit below the minimum mark. Never add plain water to top off coolant since this dilutes freeze protection and reduces the effectiveness of corrosion inhibitors. Use only coolant specifically formulated for your watercraft's engine, as automotive coolants sometimes contain additives incompatible with aluminum components common in marine engines.

Inspect coolant condition by examining color and clarity. Fresh coolant appears bright and translucent in colors ranging from green to orange depending on the specific formulation. Dark, rusty, or murky coolant indicates contamination requiring complete system flushing and refilling. Don't attempt to simply drain and add fresh coolant to contaminated systems; proper flushing removes deposits that would otherwise continue causing problems even with new coolant.

Engine oil in four-stroke watercraft (most modern Sea-Doo models and all Kawasaki and Suzuki machines) should have been changed during winterization, but it deserves verification before the season begins. Check oil level using the dipstick, ensuring it falls within the safe operating range marked on the stick. Low oil levels create lubrication problems that can destroy engines in minutes under the high-rpm operation common in personal watercraft use.

Inspect oil condition by examining color and texture. Fresh oil appears amber or light brown and flows freely. Dark black oil or oil with a gritty texture indicates contamination requiring immediate changing. If you discover the oil wasn't changed during winterization, perform this service now before operating the engine. Running contaminated oil damages internal components progressively, shortening engine life and potentially causing catastrophic failures.

Exterior Inspection and Hull Examination

The exterior of your watercraft tells stories about what happened during storage and reveals problems requiring attention before you launch for the first ride. Comprehensive inspection identifies damage, wear, or degradation that could cause failures or safety issues once you're on the water. This examination goes beyond casual looks at obvious areas to include detailed checks of components easy to overlook.

Begin with the hull, looking for cracks, star-shaped impact marks, or gel coat damage that might have occurred during storage or from previous use. Small cracks can grow into major structural problems if water penetrates through damaged gel coat to the underlying fiberglass laminate. Run your hands over suspect areas, feeling for soft spots indicating delamination where fiberglass layers have separated from the core material.

Inspect the ride plate under the rear of the hull, checking for impact damage, cracks, or looseness. The ride plate affects handling significantly, and damage that seems minor can create dangerous instability at high speeds. Ensure all mounting fasteners remain tight and show no signs of elongated holes or stripped threads indicating previous problems.

Check the intake grate at the front of the jet pump housing, looking for bent bars, cracks, or missing sections. Damaged grates reduce pump efficiency and allow debris to enter the jet pump where it can cause expensive impeller damage. Even slightly bent bars deserve attention since they create turbulence that hurts performance and increases cavitation.

Move to the engine compartment, inspecting for any signs of fluid leaks, loose hoses, or damaged wiring that might have occurred during storage. Look specifically at areas where rodents might have caused damage since mice and other small animals often seek shelter in stored watercraft during winter. Chewed wires and damaged hoses create failures that can leave you stranded, while nesting materials left inside engine compartments pose fire risks once engines heat up.

Inspect the seat and upholstery, checking for cracks, tears, or fading that would allow water to penetrate foam padding. Water-soaked seats become heavy and uncomfortable while promoting mold growth that creates health hazards and unpleasant odors. Address minor upholstery damage before it expands into problems requiring complete seat recovering.

Spring Service at Habberstad Powersports

While many spring preparation tasks can be completed by owners with basic mechanical skills, professional spring commissioning provides thoroughness and expertise that maximize your investment's protection. At Habberstad Powersports, located at 390 E. Jericho Turnpike in Huntington Station, our factory-trained technicians specialize in Sea-Doo, Kawasaki, and Suzuki personal watercraft service following manufacturer-recommended procedures.

Our comprehensive spring service includes all the inspections and procedures outlined in this guide plus additional maintenance appropriate for your specific model and its service history. We identify potential problems before they cause failures, recommending repairs or replacements when our experience indicates approaching end-of-service life for wear items. Addressing these issues during spring commissioning prevents breakdowns during prime riding season when you'd rather be on the water making memories with family and friends.

Long Island's riding season kicks off in earnest by late May as water temperatures climb through the 60s into comfortable range for extended outings. Early preparation ensures your watercraft is ready when that first perfect riding day arrives, rather than discovering problems that keep you on the sideline while others enjoy ideal conditions. Our service department maintains inventory of common parts and filters, preventing delays that would occur if we needed to order components after discovering service requirements.

Call (631) 427-4400 to schedule spring commissioning service before the seasonal rush makes appointments scarce. Early scheduling also provides flexibility if inspections reveal repairs requiring parts orders or more extensive work than simple service procedures. We also offer convenient service packages covering essential maintenance at substantial savings compared to individual service pricing, making professional service more affordable than many riders realize.

Spring is coming to Long Island. The Great South Bay awaits. Moriches Inlet is calling. Make sure your personal watercraft is ready to answer.